Athens

With a combination of ancient civilization ruins, Mediterranean beaches and modern European culture, Athens is one of the highlights of Europe.

Duration: 4 full days

Budget: $1,500 plus airfare

Most everyone has at some point put Athens on their must-see list. It's the begining of so much of Western civilization and people are intrigued by the iconic ruins like the Parthenon. They are also rightfully drawn by the popularity of islands like Santorini. With so much to do and see, it is easy to make a long trip out of Greece. However, this guide is targeted to those that want to spend a few days and making the most of a stop during a European trip. Spending a few days in Athens and a few days on one of the nearby islands will make for a well balanced trip for learning and relaxing if Greece is your only destination. But if you will be going to Athens for a few days, or trying to add on to a cruise leaving or arriving in Athens, here are some recommendations to make the most of the opportunity and get an overview experience.

Going

Athens is an easy destination to fly into from major airports and the Athens airport is a typical half hour or so from downtown. I wasn't sure about safety and I've gotten to the point in life where it's a nice mental relief to have transportation lined up after a long international flight to get me directly to the hotel. I arranged for a driver through the hotel to pick me up. That said, there was confusion to where the person would wait in the international terminal and ended up being a bit inconvinent. Next time, I will just use the Metro as there is a direct line and it seemed very safe.

Like most major cities in Europe, Athens has an underground mass transit system that is easy, affordable and will take you to any major tourist location. I was able to buy a pass for the days I was there for about $10 USA. English is a secondary language on signs and it is very easy for English speaking people to use it. It seemed safe but I used standard care to prevent theft. I love using mass transit in places like this because it gets you out and connected more. But it does that a little patience to orient yourself at new stops.

Staying

My hotel choice was the Wyndham Grand in Athens, which is a couple Metro stops away from the heart of tourist activities. The advantages of the location is that it is just on the other side of a large roundabout from the Metaxourghio Metro station for easy transit, is a nice, newer hotel and is a bit less money for being just outside of the heart of everything. I had some concerns about the neighborhood before arriving since I had Googled the neighborhood with street view pictures, but a lot has changed and there have been a lot of property developments and improvements to where I felt very safe and comfortable walking around. There were a few cafes and restaurants for easy dining near the hotel. The rooms were pretty spacious for European standards and things were very clean. It is rated as five stars on some of the travel sites, but I'd say it was more of a solid four star with new, modern construction benefits.

My advice would be to save money on not getting a room with an Acropolis view. It's a pretty stunning sight the first night, but wears off quick and in the end you are out touring most the day and will not care at night. Instead, take advantage of the rooftop deck and restaurant for great pictures and also a sight over a morning or evening beverage. There is also a pool, but seating is limited to about 15 people or so and there is little chance of getting a spot. That said, you likely didn't go to Athens to spend the entire day at the pool.

Overall it was an excellent choice for affordable luxury and supporting the needs of a busy tourist. The one quirk was that the hotel was oddly cheap in replacing things like soaps and tissues in the room each day. There was also a very strange policy of limiting to two coffees per stay in the in-room coffee machine.

Doing

There are lots of ancient ruins to see and unless you are really into them, they will start to look similar and less impressive the more you walk and your feet ache. I'd recommend getting a few looks early and then save your energy for the Acropolis and measure your passion afterwards to see how much you really want to walk a mile to see a couple fallen columns. If you are going to only see the Acropolis and maybe one other site, you may consider purchasing tickets to each individually. However, it is a fairly decent deal and easier to buy the all site pass for about $30 USA and go to any that you like (one time per pass). The pass can be purchased at the site entrances.

The Acropolis is one of the main things you want to do, so it is recommended to plan on it the first time you have a good night of sleep and ready to go, and not wait until later where you miss it if the weather is bad or something. Have your ticket already purchased and skip the line in the morning. Make sure to be there before it opens so you can beat the crowds. Once there, walk directly to the top and don't stop to take pictures of things along the way. It's exciting to be there and you will be pulled to pause at every insignificant thing that you can easily do on the way down. Seriously, you want to get to the top before the other people. It's a bit of a walk and there did not appear to be good accommodations for disabled people (many stairs), so if walking is a concern you should do some research on options. Plan on a couple trips around the Parthenon to check out different views, picture opportunities and other ruins on the site. Take your time on the way down to see some of the things you missed on the way up.

At the base of the Acropolis stands the Acropolis Museum. It's hard not to go since you are there, but I really wasn't impressed with what was inside. Perhaps it is getting numb to some of the artifacts the more you see in Athens, but I also didn't find it particularly well done. What I did enjoy was what was outside and under the entrance, the archaeological excavation. You can discover what the ancient communities looked like. The lines to the museum can be very long but appeared to thin toward the end of day. I'd recommend waiting, but don't wait too long that you don't have enough time before closing. I was personally good with an hour in the museum and 30 minutes outside in the excavation area.

As far as other sites, the Ancient Agora is an interesting and historical experience to walk around. The others can really be viewed just as good from the streets as going inside the grounds. The original Olympic Stadium is a fair walk from the Temple of Olympian Zeus and past the National Gardens. It is interesting to see and tour if you are passionate about the Olympic Games.

Filipappos Hill is just outside one of the Acropolis exits and definitely worth the short hike up to the lookout edge. My favorite view of the Acropolis. Socrates' prison is on the way and worth a one minute stop.

Lykavittos Hill is a much steeper walk and a Metro or taxi ride away. While it provides an amazing 360 degree view of the city and sea, I thought the view of the Acropolis was more interesting from Filipappos Hill. There is a small cable car that can take you up, though, and might be a better option for those with mobility limits. Military guards change the flag early in the morning and can be interesting to catch.

The Plaka district (pictured) is one of the best market, shopping and eating areas I've ever experienced. Located at the base of the Acropolis, it's clean, engaging and has something for everyone. It is easy to spend a full day there, but make sure to have a meal and do some shopping.

If you are interested in checking out the Greek Islands and do not have time to add on a few days to really experience them, try a day trip. There are tours online that will pick you up at your hotel and take you to three different island stops. Alternatively, the ferry to the islands is in Piraeus and is only about 40 minutes away from central Athens by Metro. Directly across from the Metro station in Piraeus is a small shop called "Lets Ferry" where you can buy a ticket to different islands. I bought one to Aegina and walked a bit along the ferry terminal to my boat. About an hour later I arrived and walked around what was a pretty typical island town of tourist shops and restaurants on a strip. Then headed back for what was a relaxing day and a pretty refreshing break from visiting ancient sites.

Eating

My favorite dining was a casual lunch in the Plaka district. There are no specific recommendations as it is really a place lined with options that suit any needs. Enjoy the walk around and finding a place with outdoor seating that fits your tastes.

For breakfast each day I went to the "Bread Factory" across from the hotel. It appeared to be a chain type business and had a large range of baked goods, desserts and quick, hot meals deli style.

Another place near the hotel a few doors down was a small restaurant called Postscript. It was an independent casual dining restaurant with delicious homecooked, authentic Greek dishes (including the moussaka, which was wonderful). It is the perfect place after a long day of tourist activities to be close to the hotel for quality food and to not break your bank. I was able to talk with the owner a bit and very much enjoyed our conversation.

Photography Tips

The best overall view of the Acropolis is from Filipappos HIll. It's certainly a hike for people that don't have walking limitations, but it is not a long walk from the Acropolis, nor very strenuous. Getting to the lookout point will provide a perfect panoramic view.

Once on the Acropolis, people tend to collect near the flagpole to take pictures. If you walk from there to the Parthenon to its base, then to the left to its corner, you can get some good pictures of the Parthenon without people in them. For some reason there isn't much activity there.

If you go to Lykavittos Hill (pictured) for photos above the city, the better picture is not at the very top, but rather the first turn on the way down. At the top there are cables and some sort of antenna, as well as other people. Going down a little has the same view toward the Acropolis with a little less clutter.

Day Planning

Day 1: Start out by purchasing a Metro ticket and taking it to Syntagma station. Time it for the hourly changing of the guard. Walk from Syntagma Square down the pedestrian street through the Monastiraki district and to Monastiraki Square. Purchase a pass for entry into all the ruins at the Tower of the Winds and see a couple of the small ruins. Familiarize yourself with the Plaka district and do some shopping and eating.

Day 2: With your pass already purchased, be at the Acropolis prior to it opening. When done, walk up Filopappos Hill for some pictures and stunning view. Head back down toward the Acropolis Metro station and check out the Temple of Olympian Zeus and nearby ruins with the same pass, the walk over to the Roman Stadium. End by viewing the Acropolis museum and using the Acropolis Metro station to return.

Day 3: Take a day trip to Greek Islands and relax after a lot of walking the day before.

Day 4: Start by walking up Lykavittos Hill for an early morning view of the city. Head back and see some of the other ruins like the Ancient Agora. Visit the Plaka another time for gifts and souvenirs.