Pyramids and Cairo

Seeing the pyramids are on everyone's bucket list. If you go, do it right.

Like most people, seeing the pyramids was always on my bucket list, so I added a short trip to Cairo on a trip I was taking to Greece and Israel. It was probably the most memorable part of that trip, but it was also stressful and difficult. Even as an experienced traveler, I had to make sure I was alert on safety. Basically, my advice is to go to Cairo, see the pyramids and maybe one additional thing or so, and basically move on. My recommendation is to stay at a quality hotel that can make arrangements for you and you feel happy spending time at rather than walking around town. If I was to do it again, I would probably spend two full days (not including arrival) and then go on a Nile cruise to see other sites in Egypt. Make sure you have adequate cash on hand as it is pretty much a cashless society (including museums, etc.).

Duration: 2 full days for Cairo (plus travel days)

Budget: $2,000 for Cairo (including spending money and tips)

Going

As part of a Middle East trip, travelling to Cairo was a little tricky. I wasn’t able to get a direct flight between Israel and Egypt on either end, so I went from Athens (round trip ticket from Athens and then continue to my next stop). However, there was only one flight per day each way on the desired airline, so you need to work around that. The one I took was in the middle of the night, which threw off sleep schedules and wasted a half day. There may be other flights, but look up some of the safety ratings of the airlines online. Aegean Air is a Greek airline and was excellent. Do yourself a favor and spend some extra money to have the hotel send a driver to get you- it’s worth the money to avoid the taxi chaos, stress and safety.

Staying

Go to the Ritz Carlton in Cairo. It makes my list of top hotels in the world I've stayed in (I was tempted to not leave the hotel other than pyramids). The Ritz Cairo is a high end hotel, and the budget traveller might find a way to save a little money at an alternative hotel. But with the exchange rate, it was only about $175 per night including one of he best brunches I’ve had in world travel. I’ve spent that at highway hotels with Fruit Loops in the lobby. More than anything, it is worth every penny (and so is a Nile River view even though I usually save by avoiding views). It is by far in my top five hotels in the world and the perfect place to relax after seeing the pyramids, or just enjoy amazing hospitality. The hotel is amazing at booking drivers and arranging customized experiences that you won’t get at any other hotel. How many times are you going to the pyramids? Do it right. It’s worth it for the extras in a difficult and stressful place to navigate.

The other option is the Mena House (pictured), which is operated by Marriott. It is a nice alternative and right at the base of the pyramids. It won't have the standard of luxury, but will be located close to pyramids if that is your primary activity. I had breakfast there the morning I went to pyramids.

Doing

Obviously, the main thing you want to do is the pyramids. You could be part of some tour group, but for the money it's a better deal to get a private guide and have flexibility. For less than $200, I arranged through the hotel a full day private tour of the Giza pyramids (about 45 minutes away). It started before sunrise where I took a camel ride in the desert to watch the sun come up, then entered the pyramids grounds about 8am when it opened. Pay an extra $20 US to be able to walk inside the pyramid (FYI- traditional cameras are not allowed inside pyramid itself but a phone is, so take turns watching each other's cameras outside unless you trust your guide).There is a drive from one end to the other with a couple roadside stops to view. Don’t let the guide rush you because it will go quick and you can only go one way on the road. You want to go there first thing in the morning because there will be few people. However, the advantage of going later is that the light show at night (about 7pm and $20) is actually worth seeing. I went back another day but it was costly to get there again.

The Egyptian Museum is also something good to do with time, but not to plan your trip around. The Ritz-Carlton hotel was across the street from the Egyptian Museum, which was worth doing but also disappointing. Don't expect a European style museum with careful branding and information displays. It's more of a glorified storage warehouse as it was not kept up well and lacked good information (though the King Tut room was worth it). The new museum planned in 2020 will likely be better. You can pay extra to bring a non-phone camera, but it isn't worth the money. The couple things you will want pictures of are not allowed to be photographed anyway.

The only other activity I'd recommend is hiring a driver (easy through hotel) for 3 hours to drive around and see the sites. I felt I saw all I wanted to do and appreciated the driver/ guide for safety. Do a short visit through Khan el-Khalili, which is the main market for tourist souvenirs.

Eating

I ate all of my meals at the hotel. Reserve a room with breakfast. It was a very large brunch with lots of variety (including both Egyptian and international cuisine). My general approach to packing full sight-seeing days is to have a big breakfast, don't waste time during the day while touring, and then have dinner. Plus, there really aren't any options for food in the pyramid grounds. After spending the day doing tourist activities, I’d come back and have dinner with the luxury and safety of the hotel. The Ritz-Carlton has about five different restaurants with different cuisines.

Photography Tips

For the pyramids, one possibility is to arrange a private trip to the dessert at sunrise since the pyramids to not open until about 8am. That said, I found morning visibility a bit tough with all the smog. At the pyramids, the crowds were less in the morning, but the sky was better in the afternoon. Since the road through the pyramid grounds is one way, make sure to take your time and pictures as you go. The best views of the pyramids will be a parking lot about 2/3 through the journey (and a possibility of riding a camel into the desert from there and getting a broader view of all three together than the car distance allows). At the end of the grounds is the sphynx and you will get some good photos there. Many locals are aggressive in helping you, so there will be some distractions. A polarization filter is a good option to have on hand to help with reflections.

What to Bring

Check out the clothing page for some essential items, including convertible pants (wear shorts walking around and make them pants for riding a camel), a UV protection travel shirt and a neck gator.

Day Planning

Day 1: Arrive and perhaps see the Egyptian Museum (2-3 hours) (depending on hotel location)

Day 2: Early start and visit the pyramids (half day). Return at night for the light show (2 hours).

Day 3: Take a city guided tour (2-3 hours) and visit Khan el-Khalili (depart that evening for a Nile cruise or stay one extra day and do a night river cruise)