Jerusalem

Be inspired, awed and educated in the Holy City

There is more to see and history to understand than one can possibly cover in one visit. I went to Israel as part of a larger Middle East trip and only had a few days. With only a few days to be there, my planning and research led to answering a basic question: spend time in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv or to try and do both rushed. I settled on just going to Jerusalem and was extremely glad to have made that choice. I have not been to Tel Aviv and am sure there are many benefits, but it appeared like a place to get time on the beach and experience a vibrant city. That will remain on the list of future places to visit. But with only a few days, I am happy to have chosen the city with unmatched religious and historical significance.

Duration: 3 full days

Budget: $1,500 (flying from Europe)

Going

My flight was from Europe and was a direct, short and affordable flight (less than $200 USA each way). The biggest thing to prepare for is the time needed to dedicate to security checks. Even in the airport before checking in, there is extensive manual screening of all items, so be prepared to go through your suitcase. For anyone that hasn't been to Israel before, this might be new and you should plan on arriving three hours before your flight departure. The Tel Aviv airport is in the middle of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem (a little closer to the former) and will be about a 45 minute taxi ride.

Experienced Tip: There are a few options in getting to Jerusalem from the airport. Go to the transit counter near baggage claim and have them go over your options (no need to figure out in advance). The taxi option will be expensive, but there are alternatives based on time, effort and cost. I ended up using a shared taxi that was about half the cost (shared van with about 6 people) and really didn't take any extra time because it was a direct ride to Jerusalem and all the hotels for the passengers were a few blocks from each other.

Staying

There are many good options for hotels in downtown Jerusalem that will fit your individual preferences. I stayed at the Leonardo Plaza hotel near Independence Park. If you like a 1970's style interior design and architecture, it is a good fit. In seriousness, it is badly in need of a rehab project. Despite the staff trying their best, they only have so much to work with. However, it was clean and the hotel worked hard to provide some extras like snacks in the room and happy hours in the lobby. The location was ideal and it was a reasonable price in a very expensive city. Independence Park is about a 15 minute, safe and easy walk to the Old City and about a 10 minute walk to popular downtown tourist restaurants and shops (also the street car). It had a buffet breakfast option that received a lot of good reviews online, but I assume those are people that are used to the roadside waffles and cereals. It was more than that, but it was nothing compared to what is generally provided at good hotels for breakfast.

Doing

Start your day at the Old City at either the Jaffa Gate or Demascus Gate. As an experienced traveler, I pride myself on being able to navigate new places. However, despite being only about one square km, with so many winding and interconnecting pathways it is easy to feel like you are in a maze. Maps don't necessarily help when the streets are not always marked. For that reason, it is recommended to have a personal guide for at least part of the day. In the morning there will be a number of independent guides looking for customers at the various entry points. Even if you don't care about any education they have, hiring one will be worth it to help get you in the right direction and save you time to enjoy the things you want to do. Just hire them to lead you to what you want to do. You really want to plan your day right in order to see what you want to because timing is important.

With less crowds, start out walking Christ's path with the cross. Via Dolorosa (way of the cross) and end at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to view Christ's tomb. There are markers on buildings for the various checkpoints, but they are hard to see and one of the reasons the guide will be helpful.

Experienced Tip: At the church, proper attire is required for viewing. Shorts will likely keep you out. Plan on wearing pants and other appropriate dress (or bring something in your bag to change before then if you don't want to wear it all day). My recommendation is a pair of convertible pants.

While going from the Christian Quarter to the Armenian Quarter, walk over to the Hall of the Last Supper at Mount Zion. If you are patient between tour groups you can likely get some time alone in there without crowds which will give you a moment to reflect on the history. Then, check out King David's Tomb while you are there.

Another consideration near the Jaffa Gate is the entrance to the ramparts walk (near the Citadel) where you can walk on the top of the wall and see in the distance. It was something interesting, but would not be my priority if I were to do it again.

The Muslim Quarter has limited access for most visitors and you will want to plan ahead. Temple Mount and the Dome of the Rock are only open to non-Muslims for a few hours a day- in the morning and an hour after lunch. I timed going in the post-lunch hour and it was sufficient time. It is a beautiful site and definitely worth seeing. Take some pictures at one of the steps and then take your time walking around and appreciating the experience.

My recommendation for the Jewish Quarter is to prioritize and honor the significance of the Western Wall. You will want to pack a hat as head coverings are required (though there are some coverings available to use). The wall has separate sides based on gender. It will be crowded earlier in the day which is one reason I would recommend going in the afternoon as a tourist. The other is that the sun in the summer will not be in the way for photographs. You may also consider the Jerusalem Archaeological Park if you have time.

There is plenty to see outside the Old City too. Yad Vashem is the Holocaust remembrance center. It is something that should not be missed and was one of my most memorable experiences. It provides such a rich understanding of not just the more common elements of the Holocaust, but the lesser known information and cultural and political events of the time. Make sure to find time to spend a half day dedicated to this (transit plus a few hours). The good news is that it is easy to get to. From the Jaffa Gate or a short walk from most the hotels in downtown, you can get on the street car for a couple dollars and just travel a few stops to the end of the line (Mount Herzl). There is an easy, medium distance walk to the center.

Consider taking a day tour from Jerusalem and visit other significant sights like the Dead Sea or Bethlehem. For less than $100 USA, you can likely find a tour group online or the hotels will have lots of partnerships. The groups will pick you up with a bus at your hotel downtown early in the morning and return that day. Certainly there are multi-day options too, but the one day excursion is an easy add on without moving any luggage.

Eating

This is one of the trips where I was maximizing my tourist time and simply used food as fuel. I filled up on the buffet breakfast at the hotel, had some small snack at a street vendor and then had dinner at the hotel before crashing. I did walk around the night I arrived to look for a restaurant and settled on a basic café for a sandwich that I don't remember. The biggest thing to consider is that restaurants will be Kosher and be either ones that have meat or ones that have dairy.

Photography Tips

In the Jewish Quarter, find the Aish HaTorah World Center. For less than $10 USA, it has an amazing rooftop deck that provides for perfect views of both the Western Wall and Temple Mount. In the summer months, it is best to wait until late afternoon for the sun to clear from view, but make sure to check visiting hours.

There are no photographs in Yad Vashem, so have a lighter load by leaving your camera behind and connect with the moment.

Day Planning

Day 1: Start early and spend the full day in the Old City

Day 2: Spend the first half at Yad Vashem, then follow up the afternoon with any Old City experiences that you were not able to cover, or shop for souvenirs

Day 3: Take a tour to the Dead Sea or another city like Bethlehem